Juneau Unveiled: A Deep Dive into Glaciers, Northern Forests, and Majestic Whales
With its rich tapestry of landscapes, Juneau, the heart of the Last Frontier, offered a multifaceted exploration during my two anchoring stops on an Alaskan cruise. Each experience was a voyage into the intricacies of nature, offering a blend of tranquillity, awe, and insight.
The Ice Monarch: Mendenhall Glacier
My journey to Juneau began with the Mendenhall Glacier, a monolith of ancient ice that served as a grand testament to Earth's primaeval epochs. A scenic bus ride carved through landscapes painted with nature's palette before depositing me at the glacier's foot. Nearby, Nugget Falls cascaded with a roar that echoed against the icy facade of the glacier, providing a mesmerizing counterpoint to the glacier's stoic tranquillity.
The falls, fed by Nugget Creek which is in turn fed by the Nugget Glacier, form a part of the Juneau Icefield watershed. Over time, the glacier's meltwater has carved out a path, cascading over bedrock and creating the thunderous waterfall.
Close by, the visitor centre seemed an odd juxtaposition against the grandeur of the natural surroundings. It was more a flycatcher than a beacon of interest, attracting those less inclined towards the adventurous exploration of the surroundings and thus preserving the tranquillity of the wilderness.
Near the glacier, a stream churned with the struggling bodies of salmon, their journey upstream an awe-inspiring spectacle. These Pacific salmon species, likely Chum or Coho, are known for their epic migration, called a 'run'. After spending years in the ocean, they return to their birth streams to spawn, navigating thousands of miles and overcoming daunting obstacles. Their keen sense of smell, believed to be even more acute than a dog's, helps them locate their natal streams in an incredible feat of nature's GPS.
The surrounding northern forest, awakened by the patter of rain, was a realm of verdant beauty. Amidst the towering trees and lush undergrowth, squirrels offered lively companionship, their playful energy breathing life into my solitary exploration.
Mendenhall Glacier. Juneau. Alaska. USA.
Mendenhall Glacier. Juneau. Alaska. USA.
Juneau. Alaska. USA. View from the trail above.
The Marine Ballet: A Whale-Watching Adventure
The climax of my first visit was a whale-watching tour. The waters of Juneau are a sanctuary for a variety of whale species, including humpbacks, orcas, and minke whales, referred to as "rec whales." Each species presents unique behaviors and characteristics, offering a glimpse into the complex world beneath the waves.
Humpback whales are noted for their impressive acrobatics, and their distinctive spouts or blows. When they surface, they expel air and water vapor through their blowholes, creating a bushy, column-shaped blow. Orcas, on the other hand, produce a more 'bushy' blow due to their dual blowholes. The intricacies of these behaviors are as diverse and fascinating as the creatures themselves, painting a vivid picture of life in the Alaskan seas.
Humpback Whales. Juneau. Alaska. Whales.
Humpback Whales. Juneau. Alaska. Whales.
Humpback Whales. Juneau. Alaska. Whales.
Humpback Whales. Juneau. Alaska. Whales.
Juneau. Alaska. Orca.
Let's embark on a journey to meet these magnificent creatures, learn how to distinguish them, and uncover some intriguing facts about their lives.
Humpback Whales: The Acrobats of the Ocean
The humpback whale, with its distinctive body shape and long pectoral fins, is a frequent visitor to the Alaskan waters. Known for their acrobatic breaching behaviour, humpbacks are a sight to behold as they launch their massive bodies out of the water in a spectacular display of strength and agility.
Identifying a humpback is relatively easy. Look for a small dorsal fin sitting atop a humped back, which becomes visible when the whale arches its back before diving. The underside of the tail, or fluke, is also unique to each individual, much like a human fingerprint.
Did you know that humpbacks are renowned singers? Males produce complex "songs" that can last for hours, a phenomenon that continues to intrigue scientists.
Orca Whales: The Apex Predators
Orca whales, also known as killer whales, are the largest members of the dolphin family and are easily recognizable by their striking black bodies and white patches above the eyes and on the belly. They are the apex predators of the ocean, known for their intelligence and hunting prowess.
In Alaska, there are two types of orcas - resident and transient. The resident orcas feed primarily on fish, while the transient orcas, also known as Bigg's killer whales, prefer a diet of seals and sea lions. You can distinguish between the two by their dorsal fins. Residents have a curved, falcate dorsal fin, while transients have a straighter, more triangular fin.
An interesting fact about orcas is their matriarchal society. Pods are led by female orcas, often the oldest and most experienced members who pass down knowledge through generations.
Grey Whales: The Long-Distance Migrants
Grey whales undertake one of the longest annual migrations of any mammal, travelling from their feeding grounds in the cold Alaskan waters to the warmer breeding grounds off the Mexican coast. They are medium-sized whales, covered in characteristic grey-white patterns, created by parasites that attach to their skin.
These whales are bottom feeders, scooping up sediments from the seafloor and filtering out tiny creatures for nourishment. A fun fact about grey whales is that they are one of the most friendly and curious towards boats, often approaching and spy-hopping to get a better view of their surroundings.
Beluga Whales: The White Wonders
Beluga whales, often referred to as the canaries of the sea due to their high-pitched calls, are easily identifiable by their bright white colour and bulbous forehead, known as a 'melon'. These small, sociable whales are commonly found in the Arctic and sub-Arctic waters.
Belugas are incredibly vocal and use a series of clicks, whistles, and clangs to communicate and navigate their icy habitat. Interestingly, unlike most other whales, belugas can nod and turn their heads, thanks to their flexible necks.
Skyward Sojourn: The Cable Car Ride
My second sojourn in Juneau took me skyward via a cable car ride. The breathtaking views offered a panoramic perspective of the city nestled in Alaska's wild embrace, with trails unfolding the stunning vistas from varying heights.
