Sydney, Nova Scotia: A Scenic Journey Through Canada's Northern Island
Today is a new day for me in the city of Sydney, Nova Scotia. This town is located north of Halifax, still within the same island confines that welcomed me with a chilly morning breeze. Yet my car was already downstairs, and according to my schedule, I would spend the entire day exploring an area known as the Cabot Trail.
The Cabot Trail, perhaps the most renowned route in the vicinity, is a scenic road that encircles the northern part of the island. One could either take a full day, perhaps a day and a half, to traverse it if they chose to take their time with each stop. However, I didn't possess such luxury, hence, I began my journey at dawn, aiming to cover a third of it before returning.
Regardless, this promised an opportunity to acquaint myself with the landscapes that define this region. The town of Sydney itself, while appearing as a quaint, provincial town, fails to present anything exceptionally notable or worthy of special attention.
An hour into the drive, I passed by mainly white, wooden houses that were comfortably nestled, each distinct yet sharing a certain similarity. Surrounded by green forests, predominantly of low white birches. But their short stature does not denote youth; rather, in these harsh lands, the trees expend more energy on survival than growth.
Another hour on the road unveiled a panoramic view of yet another bay on the horizon, the Cabot Trail wrapping around it like an artistic masterpiece. Local inhabitants have made good use of this peninsula, establishing a ferry crossing in this narrow, strategic location to traverse the bay.
The crossing itself, perhaps one of the shortest ferry rides in existence, saves significant time, covering approximately 100 meters from one shore to the bay's deeply indented end. From there, the real essence of the Cabot Trail begins.
The trail becomes more discernable and the landscapes more varied. Still punctuated by yellow birch forests, the road weaves along the shore, offering glimpses of vast lakes with solitary trees and waves breaking on them. Fishing establishments appear sporadically - fishing, particularly lobster and crab fishing, forms an integral part of the local economy.
The lobster season here is fleeting, lasting only a few weeks and is highly regulated. The lobster and crab fishery is one of the main exports, contributing substantially to the local economy. Despite their export value, lobsters aren't considered a delicacy here; their price is far removed from the exorbitant rates seen in global restaurants. Instead, they are a common staple, abundantly available for the local population.
My first stop is a small fishing village that reveals a vista of beaches, further enhanced by the coastal scenery. A few logs and stranded trees add to the atmosphere of this place. After a brief pause, I continue my journey along the coast, where the road gradually ascends to a location known as Smoky Mountain.
Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island
The intriguing name of this locale originates from its propensity to suffer from frequent fires in the past. Thankfully, the land is currently dry and free of fires. My next stop is a panoramic viewing platform that provides a bird's eye view of both parts of the island.
Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island
Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island
On one side, there's an endless expanse of green, with curved coastlines running below, while on the other side, more rugged and precipitous shores start to emerge along our trajectory. We won't reach the most mountainous parts, as they lie further north on the trail.
Nevertheless, our journey is moving increasingly towards more hilly rather than mountainous terrains, which continually reveal more upward vistas.
Further on, the road twists and turns, alternately unveiling new bays and circumventing deeper inland shores, until it reaches a particularly vibrant headland. This area is adorned with cottages, perhaps belonging to a hotel or a restaurant, where we plan to make a stop.
Perched on a headland overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Keltic Lodge provides a picturesque base from which to explore the Cabot Trail
Taking a short tour around the headland, I decide to break for lunch. This scenic location marks the endpoint of our journey for the day. Naturally, it would be amiss not to try the lobsters. I opt for a Caesar salad coupled with local lobster cakes, an indulgent delicacy bursting with freshness and flavour.
Despite the harsh climate, the island surprisingly harbours its own vineyards. I choose to sample some local fine wine, in this case, a rosé from the island vineyards. It isn't exceptional, perhaps leaning slightly towards the dessert wine category, yet it possesses a moderate, decent quality one might expect from a rosé.
Having strolled around the headland and with no time to venture further, our path leads us back across the ferry crossing. Tomorrow, we will set sail towards the smallest province of Canada, Prince Edward Island, where we're scheduled to spend half a day. Thus, the day's journey comes to a gradual end, leaving behind a trail of memorable experiences along the Cabot Trail.
